We wrapped up our first full week of school and with warm weather still in the mix my body was in dire need of a little paddle time in the Atlantic. It will probably take another week to adjust to waking before the sun has made its presence known and the fact that staying up to watch that captivating movie until late in the evening is just no longer a reality. So with the body tranistioning back to 'school time,' there was critical need for the Xterra to trek down Route 72.
The past few storms have stirred up some solid size swells with the tendency to close out at a rate that you say a little prayer before dropping down the face of any wave of choice. I'm not sure what it is about my wiring, but sitting under a warm sun and just wading in the water on my board just does something to me. I find myself at a level of peace, chill & closeness to God that I have yet to feel elsewhere. Part of me feels ageless and part of something much bigger than myself. I guess now I'm talking crazy surfer, but it is what it is. My hope is to be paddling out to the line up when the hair is gray, the bones are a little achey and my bathing suit is officially bedazzled.
May I never sit still and wait for life to come to me, but I hope to always go towards living life for all it's worth.
Free Counter
No comments:
Post a Comment